Have you ever heard about Wrangell St. Elias National Park & Preserve? Nestled deep in the heart of Alaskan wilderness, this area offers 13.2 million acres of unspoilt beauty, some of the largest volcanoes and greatest concentration of glaciers in North America. Not only is it the USA’s largest national park, but also a hidden gem that is yet to be discovered. And we couldn’t think of a better topic for our first ever blog post than a guide to Alaska’s best kept secret – McCarthy. This little town surrounded by 14 of the highest mountain peaks of the continent is a perfect base for exploring Wrangell St. Elias NP. And it holds a very special place in our hearts. We met in McCarthy Alaska when working a seasonal job back in summer 2017 and it turned out to be a life-changing adventure that has shaped our passion for the outdoors.
McCarthy Alaska is a place where time stands still and the spirit of Gold Rush mining era meets the breathtaking natural beauty. While it’s certainly not a desination for every traveller, it is perfect for those seeking off the beaten path destinations. The town is extremely remote and services are very limited. Just a few local dogs roaming freely. A hotel, a hostel, 2 restaurants, 1 bar and a little grocery store. That’s pretty much it. You’ve seen most of the town, yet there’s so much more to see! Oh, did we mention there is no public vehicle access to town? That’s correct. Once you reach the end of McCarthy Road, you’ll have to leave your car there and take a walk, but more about that further in the post. We hiked most of the trails and did most of the activities in the area. So today we bring our Ultimate Guide to this Alaska’s Hidden Gem!
MCCARTHY VS KENNICOTT
Now that you’ve started researching information about McCarthy, you should also get to know its sister village – Kennicott (also known as Kennecott). Located just 5 miles (8 km) away from each other, both towns are laid-back, but provide a great basecamps for exploring the area. While McCarthy is more lively and offers more services, Kennicott is a home to Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark and also starting point for most of the hiking trails in the area. Whether you choose to stay in McCarthy or Kennicott, there is a local shuttle that connects these two towns during the peak season. And we highly recommend spending some time in both.
WHEN TO VISIT MCCARTHY ALASKA
When it comes to deciding about what time of a year to visit, it’s quite simple. While road to McCarthy is open and maintained year-round by State of Alaska (winter road conditions can be extremely harsh though), there are no services available in McCarthy or Kennicott in the winter. Apparently, there is only about 30-40 people staying over the winter. We had a chance to meet some of them and asked how their winters look like. They said most of their winter is about chopping the wood to maintain the heat in their houses. Therefore, the best time to visit McCarthy Alaska is between mid-May to mid-September. Most local businesses are open during this time frame and day temperatures in June, July and August can go up to 20-25°C (68-77°Fahrenheit) which is perfect for outdoor activities. Early summer brings extremely long daylight, but some of the hiking trails might still be full of snow. On the other hand, late summer is when the fall colors start popping on in Alaska. You can start seeing them in late August already! That’s also when the nights are getting darker again, so there is a chance to see northern lights.
HOW TO GET TO MCCARTHY ALASKA
Getting to McCarthy Alaska is an experience itself! It is a 307 miles (495 km) long drive from Anchorage to the heart of Wrangell St. Elias NP. You’ll need to allow 7-8 hours for one-way trip as the last 60 miles (96 km) goes through McCarthy Road. This is a gravel road with no cell service or any other services. While it may sound like a really long day, routes in Alaska are typically very scenic and this one is not an exception! It is a beautiful drive with amazing landscapes everywhere around, though it’s definitely an adventurous one! Before you hit McCarthy Road (last 60 miles), make sure to fuel up your car either in Glennallen or Chitina, take some emergency food, water and spare tires. We know this might all sound a bit scary, but don’t get discouraged by these challenges. The journey to McCarthy is incredibly rewarding, with stunning scenery and opportunities to see wildlife along the way. Just make sure to drive cautiously and at a slow pace. You should have no problems making it in most of the passenger cars, but high clearance vehicles are certainly better option. We’d also recommend stopping at the ranger station in Chitina as well as McCarthy Road Information Station to get road condition info. Once you reach the narrow steel footbridge across the Kennicott river, you made it! This is the end of the road and also a place where you have to leave your vehicle as no public vehicles are allowed to McCarthy/Kennicott area. Perhaps that’s what makes it so special! From here, it is a 1 mile (1.6 km) walk to the town, but you’ll most likely have shuttle provided by your hotel or tour company. As we mentioned before, there is also a local shuttle running between McCarthy and Kennicott in the peak season.
If you’re planning on renting a vehicle, please note that a lot of rental companies do not allow you to drive McCarthy Road. Make sure to read through all conditions. If you’re not feeling like driving through McCarthy Road, there are multiple shuttle options available (Kennicott Shuttle or Overflow Transit to name a few) and flying is also possible. McCarthy has its own small airport, the McCarthy Airport (IATA: MXY), which accommodates small aircraft and provides air access to the region. Wrangell Moutain Air offers 30 minut flights between Chitina and McCarthy three times daily (mid-May through mid-September). Another (and affordable) option is to hop on the mail plane flight with Copper Valley Air.
HOW MUCH TIME DO YOU NEED FOR VISITING MCCARTHY ALASKA
If you had a chance to read the previous paragraph, then you know by now that getting to McCarthy is quite a bit of a drive that will take a chunk of your time. Therefore, we’d definitely suggest to stay for at least 3-4 full days to make that trip worth it. Don’t worry that this would be too much, you’ll probably feel like you should have stayed longer anyways (and definitely do if you can!). It is one of the most unique parts of Alaska, after all! This amount of days should allow you to get a full experience of this place and while not feeling like it was rushed.
ADMISSION TO WRANGELL-ST. ELIAS NATIONAL PARK
There are no entrance gates and no admission fees to Wrangell-St. Elias National Park!
WHERE TO STAY IN MCCARTHY ALASKA
Surprisingly, there are actually quite a few accommodation options for such a remote area. Here are some places to consider when staying in McCarthy:
If you’re up for an authentic McCarthy experience, look no further. We’re talking tiny rooms, shared bathrooms, no power sockets or door lockers in the rooms. Ma Johnson’s Hotel is basically a living museum where you’ll feel like stepping into the rich town’s mining history.
Intimate wilderness lodge located in a close proximity of Kennecott Mines and Root Glacier.
Cozy rustic cabins nestled in the forest, just a short walk from “downtown” McCarthy.
» Lancaster’s Backpacker Hotel
With simple rooms and bunk beds, Lancaster’s is a more affordable, yet comfortable budget-friendly option.
» Camping
Base Camp Kennicott campground is located at the end of McCarthy Road, right next to the Kennicott river footbridge! No reservations required, just check-in with the camp host when you arrive.
Glamping wasn’t an option back in the time we stayed in McCarthy, but there is one nowadays and it looks amazing!
» Private rentals
Browse AirBnB or Vrbo to find private rentals in McCarthy Alaska.
BEST THINGS TO DO IN MCCARTHY ALASKA
Now that we’ve covered all practical details, let’s talk about the fun part! McCarthy Alaska is an absolute paradise for all nature lovers. And what makes it even more interesting is its rich mining history. We highly recommend combining a bit of both. Take a tour into Kennecott Mine and add one or multiple outdoor acitivities depending on how much time you have. We honestly can’t tell what would be our favourite pick. We loved everything we experienced in McCarthy, so we’ll have to leave that final pick on you. But we can guarantee you won’t do mistake with any of these activities:
» Tour around Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark
Explore on your own or take a guided tour with St. Elias Alpine Guides to learn about McCarthy & Kennicott’s rich copper mining history.
» Glacier Hiking
This should be something you came to Alaska for! Root Glacier is the most accessible glacier in the park and hiking on it is a lifetime experience! While the hike itself isn’t particularly hard, glaciers can be dangerous. Therefore it is recommended to go with an experienced guide and proper equipment. St. Elias Alpine Guides or Kennicott Wilderness Guides are both amazing local companies that will take you on a glacier safely.
» River Rafting
Rafting on a glacial river is such a fun way to experience Wrangell St. Elias National Park! We went rafting on Kennicott river with McCarthy River Tours and we ended the float in a glacial lake! Jumping off an iceberg into the lake was something we’ll never forget!
» Ice climbing
The vertical ice walls of the Root Glacier offer the perfect opportunity for ice climbing! Even if you’ve never tried it before, St. Elias Alpine Guides have experienced guides and tours for any levels.
» Hiking
There are numerous amazing hikes in the area, but our favourites were those that lead to old copper mining sites in the mountains! Bonanza Mine Trail, Jumbo Mine Trail & Erie Mine Trail are all incredibly rewarding. But keep in mind that trails in this region are challening and extremely remote, so it’s essential to be prepared. It’s strongly recommended to carry SOS satellite device such as Garmin inReach (shop on Amazon Canada or Amazon US) as well as bear spray. Make sure to do your research prior hitting any of these trails! Sometimes we barely met anyone on those trails even in the peak summer season.
» Flightseeing
Seeing Wrangell St. Elias NP from above is an absolutely surreal experience. Wrangell Mountain Air has been flying in the area since 1992 and their pilots are amazing!
» Open Mic at Golden Saloon
Thursday evenings are open mic nights in McCarthy! We always looked forward to these evenings as they were such fun events where we could meet locals as well as other travellers.
» Swimming Hole
Believe it or not, but there are hot summer days in Alaska. Wanna know where locals are on such days? Classic swimming hole is a local favourite and you’ll find it halfway between the footbridge and downtown.
» Friday Night Softball
Everyone is welcome to play community softball on Friday nights! From June to August, both locals and visitors gather at the McCarthy softball field every Friday after 5 pm to play together. Gloves, bats and balls provided! What we want to note to close this section is that you should be prepared for mosquitos. Unfortunately, they are thriving in inland Alaska and McCarthy is not an exception. They are terrible and for some reason, softball field seemed to be the worst place of all. Lately, we’ve been using Thermacell (shop on Amazon Canada or Amazon US) when hanging out outside in the summer. We didn’t have a chance to test it in McCarthy, but it works perfectly here in Canada.
WHERE TO EAT IN MCCARTHY ALASKA
Wondering where to eat after all those fun activities that McCarthy has to offer? Hear us out, shopping/dining in McCarthy is not cheap. There is a small grocery store on the main street, but don’t expect to have a big selection. We’d highly recommend you to buy some some non-perishable food prior coming. If you’d like to try something from the local food scene, there are some great options:
» The Potato
Also known as Roadside Potatohead. Delicious craft drinks & local food made from scratch. Make sure to try the curly fries!
» Salmon & Bear Restaurant
Intimate fine dining experience in the heart of Wrangell St. Elias NP.
» The New Golden Saloon
Pub style restaurant with live music on the weekends. This is a local’s gatherhing spot!
» Glacier View Grill
Outdoor café with great burgers & hot-dogs.
» Meatza Wagon
If you’re looking for a quick food option in Kennicott, Meatza Wagon is a place to go! Fresh local food served from truck.
» Kennicott Glacier Lodge
The lodge runs the only restaurant in Kennicott. Breakfast and lunch are open to the public and reservations are not required.
EDGE OF ALASKA
If you feel like the name of McCarthy town sounds familiar to you, it might be because there was a TV show about it! It’s called the Edge of Alaska. The series followed the lives of few McCarthy’s tough residents as they dealt with extreme winter conditions and isolation. As someone who spend summers in McCarthy and met some of the people from the show personally, we can say it’s definitely dramatized when it comes to characters. But that’s what shows are about, right!
FINAL THOUGHTS
McCarthy isn’t just a place, it’s an experience. This remote village nestled in the heart of the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park offers a unique blend of history, wilderness, and adventure that’s unlike anywhere else. Whether you’re an adventurer or history enthusiast, or simply looking for a new and exciting destination, make sure to add McCarthy to your bucket-list. We hope this blog post will be helpful for planning your trip, so you can make the most of your visit and create your own memories!
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